jueves, 4 de junio de 2009

MEXICO CITY, THE CITY OF PALACES

Story goes that, hundreds of years ago, an Aztec emperor had a beautiful daughter, named Iztlacihuatl, which in native language means sleeping woman. One day, she fell in love with Popocatepetl, a brave and good-looking warrior. Even though he corresponded this great love, they couldn’t be together because of the big social differences.

The emperor sent him to fight a far-off war. If he returned carrying with him the head of his worst enemy, he would be allowed to marry his daughter. That was a difficult task, but he took it willingly.

She waited patiently, but after some time, she couldn’t resist his lover’s absence anymore. She fell sick and died. Soon after that, Popocatepetl returned triumphant. When the emperor gave him the bad news, Popocatepetl demanded her body, took her out of town, and placed her in a high place with a lot of flowers surrounding her and facing to the sun. He kneeled on the ground and contemplated her until he died. The years passed and they both became two big mountains, with snow covering their tops permanently.

You can see them from here. She is lying like a sleeping woman, and he is always beside her, watching his beloved princess.


Dear Traveler,

Arriving to Mexico City by airplane at night is a true spectacle. You see the largest city of the world sparkling as a huge sea of light, where distances deceive the human eye. As soon you exit the airport and fully enter into the city, you feel the charm that enticed our ancestors to settle in this land, and that continues to fascinate whoever visits it.

Mexico City is one of the key business cities of the world. Many national and foreign men and women will have to visit it at least once if they intend to make business in this country. However, in addition to all the big corporations and government offices settled in this place, the city has countless attractions that can keep you engaged for days and days.

From monumental buildings, mansions, churches and streets, to numerous top-class museums, galleries, universities, restaurants, shopping zones, parks, lakes and more, Mexico City is THE ONE place in Mexico that has something for everyone.

For years, it has marveled locals and strangers. Alexander von Humboldt declared in 1811 that Mexico’s capital should be considered among the most beautiful cities established by the Europeans on either hemisphere.

The city grew out of the ruins of ancient Tenochtitlan, using its original outline to shape the magnificent city of the present-day. Its civic architecture flourished during the 18th century, converting sober houses into splendid and elegant constructions. This was probably what made Charles J. Latrobe, governor of Victoria province, Australia, to baptize it as the “City of Palaces”.

If you are in Mexico City for only a couple of hours, or if you little time to spare in this city after doing business, there are certain places you should not miss before you leave.

The Zocalo, the centerpiece of more than a thousand architectural treasures of the Historic downtown. It is the third largest plaza in the world, and bears a huge Mexican flag waving in its center. Two buildings dominate the plaza: the Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace. Within steps lies the Templo Mayor, the ruins of the Aztec’s ancient capital Tenochtitlan. Do not forget to enter the Gran Hotel, and go up to the last floor to have a drink in its balcony, overlooking the imposing plaza.

Paseo de la Reforma was built in 1860 to connect the city with the Chapultepec Castle, home of emperor Maximiliano. It is now an elegant avenue with all kind of first class hotels, restaurants, and important buildings lining it. It also has several statues, such as the well-known Angel of Independence.

San Angel and Coyoacan were towns independent from Mexico City. Now it has swallowed them, but they still preserve its colonial style. They are home to artists and writers. People as important as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo and Leon Trotsk had their homes here, and can be visited now as museums. There are myriad of galleries, museums, restaurants, bookstores, and gardens. The center of Coyoacan is a pleasant place to spend a whole day wandering in the streets, visiting its church, and watching the people.

This is just a taste of it. We will be talking about this amazing city in our future issues, and I will give you tips and information to make the best out of your visit. But from now on, rather than visiting Mexico City for business purposes only, make it your favorite holiday destination, and discover a new fascinating spot every time!

Hasta la proxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante

HOTEL AZULIK, RENOVACION PARA EL CUERPO Y EL ESPIRITU-TULUM

Los primeros rayos del sol entran suavemente a la cabaña que parece flotar sobre las aguas color turquesa del mar caribe. La tenue luz te invita a levantarte de la cama y, al abrir la doble puerta de cristal que da al balcón sobre el pequeño acantilado, sientes la deliciosa brisa marina que llena toda la habitación. Sales en el momento justo para observar al sol que sale y se refleja sobre el apacible mar. Pareciera que ese preciso amanecer había sido creado exclusivamente para ti.

La Costa Maya es uno de los lugares más románticos y relajantes del planeta. A cerca de una hora y media por carretera de Cancún está Tulum, un bello pueblo pintoresco que conserva todavía un aire bohemio y rústico, fuera del ambiente del turismo superficial y consumista.

El lugar se encuentra apenas perturbado por la presencia del hombre. Aquí, sus habitantes están genuinamente preocupados por la conservación del medio ambiente, y aprovechan de manera respetuosa sus recursos naturales. Y es que al observar la perfección de la naturaleza, lo único que se puede desear es que permanezca por siempre así, intacta.

Y es precisamente aquí, enclavado en medio de la selva, que se encuentra Azulik, un refugio para quienes desean relajarse alejados de todo vestigio de la modernidad, y conviviendo profundamente con la naturaleza en todo su esplendor. Se trata de un conjunto de cabañas sin electricidad ni teléfono, pero con una vista espectacular al océano no interrumpida por ningún tipo de construcción, sino fusionada con un balcón diseñado para disfrutar el espectáculo del mar caribe en toda su plenitud.

La renovación interna y serenidad comienzan al entrar a la amplia cabaña, construida con finas maderas de la región, y ventanas de piso a techo cubiertas por persianas hechas de carrizo. Todo aquí está en perfecta armonía con el entorno. Conchas, hoja de palma, telas de algodón, cuerdas de henequén y todo tipo de materiales naturales forman parte de la decoración, pero sin descuidar la elegancia.

Además de la confortable cama cubierta por un blanco mosquitero, hay una colchoneta suspendida del techo dentro de la propia cabaña y otra en la terraza. Los atrapa-sueños de diferentes tamaños y colores que cuelgan de las vigas aseguran un descanso apacible, aunados a la brisa marina y el murmullo de las olas arrullando su sueño.

La pila en el exterior de su cabaña, situada sobre las enormes piedras del escarpado, permite que hasta dos personas se sumerjan en agua tibia tras abrir una botella de vino blanco o una margarita.

La naturaleza está tan presente que si mira bien, podrá contar al menos una decena de iguanas reposando en las piedras y, las más sociables, hasta se acercarán para compartir el sol y la terraza con usted. Pero no se asuste, son criaturas pacíficas y amigables.

Y aunque no hay línea de teléfono, si necesita algo o desea servicio de comida a cuarto, solo coloque una banderita en la entrada de su cabaña. La persona de servicio sabrá que debe tocar a su puerta para atenderle. Es un placer desayunar en la terraza frente al mar o cenar a la luz de las velas en la habitación. Si prefiere salir, tiene la opción de dos agradables restaurantes donde se sirven platillos de exquisita preparación.

Para que el bienestar fluya más fácilmente, Azulik ofrece un spa holístico especializado en terapias mayas que incluyen masajes, tratamientos, clases de yoga y otras actividades similares. Imagínese recostado sintiendo la ligera presión del masaje sobre su espalda, el aroma de esencias especiales y el sonido de las olas rompiendo a metros de usted.

Pero si le gusta lo diferente, le recomendamos el temascal, un milenario ritual prehispánico diseñado para purificar y armonizar el cuerpo, la mente y el espíritu que utiliza un método de sanación al mismo tiempo que se celebra una ceremonia religiosa y meditativa propia de nuestros ancestros. Si decide aventurarse, entrará junto con otras seis o siete personas a una pequeña cúpula en la playa al atardecer. El temazcalero generará un baño de vapor utilizando hierbas aromáticas y rociando agua sobre piedras volcánicas incandescentes. El guía lo irá conduciendo a través de visualizaciones y ejercicios de meditación. Es una experiencia intensa, pero que bien vale la pena, pues es una oportunidad de reconectarse con la Madre Tierra, con Dios y con uno mismo, pues le brinda la oportunidad de revalorar la importancia de vivir en armonía con la naturaleza. Al final, saldrá totalmente relajado y desintoxicado.

Pero esto es solo una parte de lo que Tulum le puede ofrecer. Muy cerca de Azulik está la zona arqueológica Tulum, que fuera en otros tiempos parte del imperio maya. Se cree que su nombre original era Zama, que quiere decir “Amanecer”, puesto que desde su ubicación se aprecia diariamente la espectacular salida del sol. Su nombre actual es más bien reciente, y significa “muralla”, debido a que para asegurar su defensa, está rodeada de muros por tres de sus flancos, dejando el lado este abierto al mar. Es un lujo pasear por esta zona en la cima del acantilado y observar los vestigios de esa civilización contrastando con el color turquesa del mar caribe y el verde jade de la selva. Es probablemente su belleza lo que lo ha convertido en el tercer sitio arqueológico más visitado de México, solo detrás de Teotihuacan y Chichen Itzá.

Además, estará muy cerca del maravilloso mundo de los cenotes, las pozas naturales que dan entrada al laberinto de los ríos subterráneos que se extienden por debajo de la Península de Yucatán. Su agua es tan fresca y cristalina que pareciera que se está flotando en el aire. Uno de los más impresionantes es probablemente el Cenote Dos Ojos, que se localiza unos 250 metros antes de la entrada al parque Xel-Ha, viniendo de Tulum hacia Cancún. Es todavía un lugar muy virgen, y los lugareños dicen que por las noches bajan los jaguares a tomar agua de las pozas. Otros atractivos son Xcacel, la mayor zona de anidación de tortuga marina Caguama y Blanca, y la Reserva de la Biósfera de “Sian ka´an” que significa “Donde Nace el Cielo” declarado por la UNESCO patrimonio de la humanidad en 1987.

En cualquier caso, disminuya un poco el ritmo. Sienta la brisa de mar en su cara y entierre los pies en la arena fresca y blanca del caribe mexicano. Déjese llevar por el murmullo de las olas y escuche atento los sonidos de la selva. Admire la belleza del cielo estrellado y el reflejo de la luna sobre el mar. Todo esto desde su santuario en Azulik, donde tras unos días de serenidad y contacto con los elementos, regresará totalmente renovado de cuerpo y espíritu.

EcoTulum Resorts & Spa. Para más información, puede visitar http://www.azulik.com/

RESTAURANTE LA ESCONDIDA, UN LUJO Y UN ARTE-MONTERREY

Entrar a La Escondida es como salir de Monterrey y adentrarse al corazón mismo del hermoso México colonial. Su elegante arquitectura y decoración, suaves arcos y grandes pinturas, refinadas artesanías en barro y madera, y representaciones de ángeles y santos nos transportan a esa seductora atmósfera del centro de nuestro país.

El atento anfitrión nos recibió en la puerta y nos acompañó a nuestra mesa delicadamente iluminada por una vela. La luz baja y la ambientación de este pequeño restaurante invitan a la tranquilidad, al disfrute. La sensación es que se ha entrado a un lugar en el que se cuidan todos los detalles, impresión que confirmamos más tarde al conocer a Jorge Ibarrola, el orgulloso propietario de este lugar que es completamente de su creación.

Para él, el ser restaurantero no es un negocio, sino una pasión. Nos ha confesado que siempre fue su sueño tener un restaurante, y que fueron los amigos que disfrutaban de sus platillos quienes lo estimularon a perseguir ese ideal. Es así que, once años atrás, se estableció en esta casa de más de cien años de antigüedad, remodelándola y decorándola a su gusto. Desde entonces, él siempre está al pendiente para que las cosas salgan como debe de ser, desde comprar los productos que son siempre frescos y de la mejor calidad, verificar que las salsas tengan los sabores correctos y la presentación sea impecable, y que los invitados estén contentos.

Es probablemente esa pasión lo que ha ocasionado que muchas personas se hayan convertido en fanáticos de su cocina, y que regresen a saborear el mismo platillo una y otra vez. Ibarrola nos comenta que a veces es difícil lograr que prueben una nueva receta, pero cuando lo logra, los vuelve a sorprender.

Más que original, la propuesta de Jorge, creador de la mayoría de los platillos, es única, pues los sabores que aquí se pueden probar no se encuentran en otro lugar. Huitlacoche, tequila, membrillo, mole, frijol negro, una larga lista de chiles y otros ingredientes muy mexicanos hacen singulares salsas, aderezos y vinagretas que son el acompañamiento constante de cortes de carne como el Angus Beef, el cabrito, la lengua o el lechón, pescados y mariscos como el atún, el huachinango o los camarones, y aves como el pollo, la codorniz o el pato, derivando en sabores completamente nuevos.

Sin embargo, aunque no se trata exclusivamente de cocina mexicana sino de una deliciosa composición de elementos típicos de diferentes naciones como Francia, Suiza, Canadá, y España, en general los platillos siempre tienen un acento mexicano. Pero lo importante es que él tiene el talento para lograr que sabores tan diferentes se distingan y se complementen entre sí de una forma exquisita.

Pero así como puede comer unas deliciosas crepas de salmón en salsa de huitlacoche con fondue de queso (¡le sugiero que no deje de probarlas!), hay también una variedad de arroces, los típicos frijoles mexicanos con gorditas de manteca que se han hecho famosos, y la característica sopa de tortilla o chiles rellenos, pero siempre con un toque de creatividad y una extraordinaria sazón.

Los colores son la esencia del espíritu mexicano, y aquí el uso de ellos tanto en la decoración como en los platillos, es exuberante y mágico. La presentación es tan importante como el sabor, pero éste no es como otros lugares en los que, con el pretexto de ser nouvelle cuisine, los platillos son diminutos. Aquí las porciones son grandes y bien servidas, para aquellos que, como yo, son de buen comer.

Es importante decir que el amante de los vinos tendrá no solo más de sesenta vinos para elegir, entre ellos el de la casa especialmente elaborado por Casa Madero, sino que podrá traer esa botella especial que había estado guardando para abrir en una ocasión especial y con una comida que lo amerite.

Quien visita La Escondida está seguro de que su la experiencia será extraordinaria, y que todos los elementos que la componen serán impecables, pues en este lugar no se trata solamente de comer bien, sino de todo un lujo y un arte, elaborado especialmente para aquellos que lo saben apreciar.

Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante

Restaurante La Escondida. Río Verde No. 147, Col. Miravalle, Monterrey, N.L. Tel. 8348 9816. Abierto de Lunes a Sábado de 13 a 12 horas, y el Domingo de 13 a 18 horas.

CEIBA DEL MAR HOTEL- PUERTO MORELOS

You wake up with the first lights of the sun. While you open the doors of the balcony of your beautiful Mexican-style room to feel the marine breeze, your other half walks to the butler box to pick up the complimentary sweet rolls and coffee for two that are already served.

As you step outside to the terrace, you witness an ocean as you’ve probably never seen before. The colors change from turquoise to midnight blue and then to indigo. The deep green stripe makes you aware of the large and impressive coral reefs that girdle the area. Close to the white sand beach, the water is so clear that you swear you can distinguish some shimmering fish.

Dear Traveler,

The Costa Maya is one of the most romantic and soothing settings on Earth. Half way between Cancun International Airport and Playa del Carmen, in the heart of the Riviera, lies Puerto Morelos, a picturesque and unspoiled fishing village surrounded by the jungle. Next to it, is Ceiba del Mar, a petite spa resort that will turn your dreams of romance and relaxation into reality.

But we are not the only ones who think this place is a branch of paradise. Resorts & Great Hotels magazine designated Ceiba del Mar as a “Connoisseur’s Choice” in 2002, sharing that distinction with a limited number of other top resorts in the world.

Every corner of the property will stimulate your senses

This secluded hideaway is specially planned to give its guests some days of peace and tranquility. Each corner of the property bears a quiet charm that eases well being. Renewal begins the moment you enter the elegant lobby, decorated with a sophisticated Mexican style and good taste, where attentive multilingual staff will welcome you and, for the next few days, will take care of all your needs and desires.

Eight villa towers line the property, each one with a rooftop sundeck and Jacuzzi. You’ll notice there are barely few more people around. No loud music. No pool-activities. No kids under 15, and no spring-breakers.

Renew your body and soul

Ceiba’s European-style spa is one of the most complete health centers in Mexico. Picture yourself immersed in a hydro-massage tub with essential oils, herbs, or milk and honey to nourish for a wonderful half an hour before you go into your treatment. Then, forget about the rest of the world while feeling the pressure of the massage on your skin, the soothing aroma of the oil blend carefully selected especially for you, and the sound of the waves crashing just meters from you.

If you like new experiences, we recommend taking part in a temazcal, an ancient pre-Hispanic ritual designed to purify and harmonize body, mind and spirit, blending a healing method with a religious and meditative ceremony. If you take the challenge, you’ll enter a round terra-cotta hut on the beach at sunset. A fragrant steam bath will generate by using aromatic herbs and sprinkling water to incandescent volcanic rocks, enhanced with burning Copal (a Mayan sacred tree resin) and brightly lit torches. You will reconnect with Mother Nature and, at the end of this unique experience, you’ll be totally relaxed and detoxified.

You can choose some special programs, such as the “spa getaway” or the “romantic interlude”, ideal for a honey moon, anniversary or simply a romantic getaway to revive romance.

Later on, choose among three different restaurants to bring to a close an unforgettable day, or to provide a exciting prelude for a more adventurous evening. Want an extra dose of romance? make a reservation and surprise your sweetheart with a private moonlit dinner on the beach or on your sunroof!

But that’s just the beginning

If you are the kind of people who like to keep fit and must exercise, the fitness center offers you weights, cardiovascular equipment, and yoga, pilates, and tai chi classes. For golf-lovers, two 18-hole golf courses are only 20 minutes away.

If you happen to love eco-tourism or water-sport activities, bicycles, snorkels and kayaks are available for exploring nearby attractions or activities, such as the magnificent Mayan ruins and bio-reserves. Also, this is the right place for open-ocean diving or snorkeling. This area is world famous for its cenotes and ancient coral reefs.

But if shopping is the only sport you are affectionate to, take advantage of the day and nighttime expeditions to Cancun and Playa del Carmen. The Mexican Caribbean has more than 2,000 shops and boutiques.

Cancun has important commercial centers, such as Plaza Caracol, Plaza Las Americas and La Isla. The latter is considered the most important one in the hotel zone. Its attractive design includes bridges and waterways, which makes it special. For more native handicrafts, go to Mercado 28, a open air market in downtown.

More recently, the first mall boutique in Mexico opened its doors in Cancun. Luxury Avenue features the best international brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo, Cartier, Ermenegildo Zegna, Fendi, Mont Blanc, and Swarovski. This new mall will put Cancun as the most exclusive shopping center of the Caribbean.

Give you and your loved one the best gift ever! Pick up the phone now and arrange to spend some days in heaven.

Hasta la próxima,
Cesarinna Bustamante

CEIBA DEL MAR SPA RESORT. Costera Norte Lote 1 SM 10 Mza. 26 - Puerto Morelos - Riviera Maya, Q. Roo, Mexico 77580. 20 minutes from Cancún International Airport and 20 minutes north of Playa del Carmen, in the village of Puerto Morelos, Mexico

LA PALAPA RESTAURANT, PUERTO VALLARTA

The world seems distant. You are surrounded by the calm sea of the Bay of Banderas, the soft sand under your bare feet, and some tiki torches illuminating your table. You can hear the gentle waves crashing just meters from you as you lift your glass to make a toast to your companion in this unforgettable evening.

Dear Traveler,

The seaport of Puerto Vallarta is the other name for romance. Its unequaled natural beauty is present everywhere in this town where the traditional Mexican atmosphere coexists with fancy shopping centers, art galleries, nightclubs, and top class hotels.

What in another time was a fishing town, became a sophisticated city just after Richard Burton and Liz Taylor were here during the shooting of the movie “The Night of the Iguana”. The mountains, the ocean, the deserted beaches and the most romantic sunrises and sunsets they discovered here were probably responsible for the most publicized love affair of that time. They were so in love with the town that they settled there. Like them, many people from every walk of life have made this unique haven their second home…

A place for those who want it all
Award winning international chefs have established literally hundreds of top quality restaurants through Puerto Vallarta, strongly influencing the flavor of the town. The best tastes and flavors from the Mediterranean, Bavaria, France, China, Argentina, or Middle East are present, and have dignified gastronomy in Vallarta into a form of art.

La Palapa is one of the best options for those who are used to having it all. Everardo Robles, Chef and author of many of the dishes served in La Palapa, is a proponent of an original alternative cuisine, consisting in a blend of Mexican and Asian tastes, with a touch of tropical accents. Tequila, panela cheese, mild chipotle or pasilla chili, avocado and other very Mexican ingredients make unusual sauces, dressings and vinaigrettes, which are a constant companion for fish, shrimp or lobster, and beef, pork, chicken or lamb, and derive into completely new flavors. But the delightful cuisine alone is not what sets La Palapa apart from the others…

The most romantic restaurant in the most romantic city
La Palapa is set in Los Muertos Beach, a privileged location in the heart of Vallarta’s Romantic Zone. In the evenings, it buzzes with happy and suntanned couples, whishing to bring to a close a fantastic day in the port with an extraordinary romantic experience.

The friendly hostess welcomes you at the door and escorts you to an enchanting spot. As you walk in, you know instantly that this place couldn’t be farther from the typical simple thatching roof structure we call “palapa”, and that we use in warm and sunny places to relax in a refreshing spot. Instead, it is elegant and stylish. Little white candles in transparent glass goblets or inside oil lamps burn on every table, and a soft lightning embellish the place. Wooden furnishing and chairs, small palms, timber beams and banisters are part of the décor. Everything here evokes nature and the sensual and humid tropic with bronze, terracotta, and seascape tones and shades.

Where exotic is a commonplace
“How about a cocktail while you examine the menu?” the waiter tempts you. The list of options runs to stuff like spinach and jicama salad with tequila lime vinaigrette and panela cheese, the traditional tortilla soup with shrimp, and main courses such as local lobster tails served with a cauliflower purée and Asian pear salad, which adds intrigue to the delicate meat. In Mexico we are blessed to have almost any kind of fruit that, in other lands, are considered precious and exotic. The Chef takes full advantage of this fact, and his creations include ingredients such as tamarind, coconut, passionfruit, and soursop which result in sophisticated and multicolored dishes.

While waiting for the food to be brought to your table, time seems to stop in this unique setting, enhanced by the best musicians playing Latin Jazz music. What may well be an endless conversation is only interrupted by the honk of a cruise crossing the bay, or a spectacular firecracker display over the sea.

The perfect aphrodisiac
After a succulent main dish and a bottle of wine, the desserts will put the final touch of romance. How about miniature puff pastries filled with vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate, or a cheesecake with macademia oreo crust and mangos from the state of Nayarit sautéed in Mexican vanilla? These impeccable morsels combine what are probably the most valuable ingredients Mexican cuisine has contributed to the world and that are now essential for all kinds of pastries and desserts: vanilla and chocolate. Combined with petals of sweet and juicy mango, all of them considered aphrodisiac, makes the perfect dessert for an endless night of love and romance.

It is not only about fine dining, it is a luxury for a few privileged
The unique combination of a casually elegant atmosphere, delicious gourmet cuisine, attentive staff, and live music, all surrounded by the most spectacular view, makes La Palapa a one-of-a-kind place, hard to find anywhere else. You will find it listed in Vallarta Lifestyle’s Platinum Dining Guide, and is a constant participant in the Gourmet Festival celebrated each year.

Additionally, it has earned international recognition and awards in the gastronomic world, including the AAA three diamonds award, and a prize for excellence in the global travel and luxury services sector.

But there’s more… Locals and tourists have determined recently that this restaurant and beach club is the "Most Romantic," "Best Outdoor Dining," and "Best Sunset Dining" restaurant in Puerto Vallarta. A perfect example of this feeling is what Kathy Lipscomb, from Walnut Creek, California, wrote: "I just wanted to say thank you to the wait staff and the chef for a wonderful evening. First and foremost, the food was amazing, impeccable! The staff was very friendly and attentive the entire time, and the view... ah, the view. Needless to say, I can’t wait to return."

If you are in Puerto Vallarta, you too give your significant other memories that will last forever.

Hasta la próxima,
Cesarinna Bustamante

Pulpito 103, Col. Emiliano Zapata. Puerto Vallarta. Reservations: 011-52-322-222-5225 Tel: 52 (322) 222-5225. Fax: 52 (322) 223-0330. web site: http://www.lapalapapv.com/ Info@LaPalapaPV.com

BUSINESS OR PLEASURE?- HABITA + CONDESA DF HOTELS

A huge full moon emerges from the city skyline, while you try some Spanish tapas and listen to the lively music in the roof top terrace. The candles and stylish decoration makes the perfect ambiance for a perfect leisurely evening. The next morning, you wake up very early with the first light entering your room. After an invigorating workout in the gym, you enter to the sauna just before a cold shower and a fresh set of clothes. As you wait for your partner, you sip a bowl of café latte and indulge in a little people watching…

You will find it hard to believe you are on a business trip. Before long, your appointee arrives for your first meeting of the day. Habita and Condesa DF are two boutique hotels owned by the same group, but with very different styles and decorations. However, they have something in common: they provide all the comfort and facilities to make the most out of your business visit to Mexico City.

Whether in the chic avenue Presidente Masaryk in Polanco, or in the well-known neighborhood of La Condesa, they are located in the heart of two of the most vibrant zones of Mexico City. As soon as you step out of the facilities, you can feel the buzz of the city. Trendy restaurants and bars, elegant shops and boutiques, all within walking distance. Comfort and contemporary design are some of their priorities.

The Habita hotel’s façade is made of glass and steel, with angular and irregular perspectives. The trendy decoration is minimalist, and the very Mexican blue agave is never missing in the lobby and rooms. No wonder it is artists and architects haven. Condesa DF, on the other side, is a 1928 triangular building that perfectly suits the rich tradition of La Condesa. Alpaca-wool carpets, stone floors, cream leather sofas and lots of turquoise complete the retro-austere décor.

Both properties feature operational meeting rooms, high speed internet, and laptop-sized safe boxes, that will make your business activities in Mexico City a lot easier and pleasant. And to unwind after a day of work, enjoy the Jacuzzi and prepare for a soothing massage. José and Laura are two professionals that will pamper you and help you forget the urban stress with very different therapy techniques. Decide from stress-chasing hot stones to relaxing aromatherapy, holistic or reflexology massages. And to wrap up a productive day, enjoy the exquisite dining options offered by each of the renowned chefs of these exceptional hotels, served in design tableware.

Hasta la próxima!

Cesarinna Bustamante

Habita. Av. Presidente Masaryk 201, Col. Polanco. Tel. 55 5282 3100. www.hotelhabita.com Condesa DF. Ave. Veracruz 102, Col. Condesa. Tel. 55 5241 2600. www.condesadf.com

ESTIA RESTAURANT, MONTERREY

As soon as you enter, the bare white walls with arches and blue verges, the tables and chairs, the little sculptures evoking mythical deities, a number of colorful paintings, and pleasant typical music, will transport you to any of the beautiful islands of Greece. Estia has an extensive menu, which includes Mediterranean and classic Greek recipes, all made with fresh ingredients. They also have an excellent selection of Greek wines, as well as all kind of cocktails, beer, aperitifs and digestives, including the typical Greek Ouzo and Metaxa. A good starter recommendation is the Pikilía Mezedes, a plate with eight cold and hot appetizers. For the main course, we suggest a Musaka, the typical platter made of aubergine, potatoes, lamb meat and béchamel sauce. It is the best mousaka I’ve had in Monterrey! Another very delicious dish is the Arni Tis Imeras, a juicy piece of lamb prepared Greek style, accompanied with tzatziki. And for dessert, the Galaktobúreko is a splendid option, made with philo piecrust, filled with orange cream and honey.

Abasolo 814 Ote, esq. Dr. Coss, Barrio Antiguo, Monterrey. Tel 8340 3668. The main courses go from $105 to $190 pesos.

martes, 2 de junio de 2009

TIME STANDS STILL- ANTIGUA VERACRUZ

TIME STANDS STILL-
ANTIGUA VERACRUZ

“I can show you around”, Isaac said. Still in his school uniform, this twelve-year-old boy works in the afternoons touring visitors through his hometown.

Many people that comes for fun to the lively Mexican seaport of Veracruz forgets to pay a visit to this nearby historic spot that, in spite of being so small, has invaluable historic jewels and worthwhile sceneries.

“For how much?” I asked, to what Isaac answered we could tip him as we wish. So we took the end to end tour of Antigua, an enchanting, but sometimes unnoticed place.


Dear traveler,

Countless people around the globe have listened La Bamba at least once. Its musical notes are able to transport them to a sometimes imprecise and warm spot in the wonderful Mexico. That splendid land is Veracruz, a state rich in colorful folklore and vibrant traditions. Its inhabitants, commonly referred to as jarochos, are identified as cheerful and light-hearted people, always with a welcoming smile in their face. In the seaport of the same name, the easy pace of living, the good mood and fiesta atmosphere are a habit. There is no need to be in carnival season to find the incurable “veracruzano” ambiance.

Well, just a few miles from this lively spot and its traditional restaurants and bars, cafés and shops, street vendors and marimba musicians, is settled the small and less bustling town of Antigua. Its historic importance is so great, that it is surprising that only a few people know about it. Its cobble-stoned streets, quiet parks, and significant stone constructions represent a period in our heritage that greatly influenced our present.

Like Isaac, you will certainly find a boy or young men offering to take you to visit the town in a visit that will transport you back in time.

Story says that, after arriving to the inhospitable island of San Juan de Ulua, where the heat was oppressive and the strong hurricanes stroke their boats, the Spaniards sought for a more welcoming and protected location to settle and have smooth communications with the ships coming from overseas. So in 1521 they moved to the waterside of the wide and navigable Huitzilapan river, and founded what it is now the town of Antigua, once one of the few contact points with Europe. Here, they received the merchandises coming from San Juan de Ulua, and from here all the commercial trade between the New World and Spain was made for almost 75 years!

Conquistador Hernan Cortes ordered the construction of what it is called the “House of Cortes”, a place now in ruins. Contrary to what you may think, it was never his home. Instead, it was used for public and administrative purposes. Something that will certainly catch your attention are the several trees in the top of the uncovered walls. Yes, in the top of the walls! with huge roots embracing them as if they wouldn’t let go their splendorous past. As we explored the place, numerous gypsies in long and colored skirts got in our way, taking our hands and promising they could reveal our future… for a small fee, of course.

Another remarkable place we visited was the Santa Anna military quarters, also in ruins. This huge space with chipped and deteriorated walls and numerous openings where the windows and doors were located will give you the perfect occasion to take some outstanding black and white portraits.
The lovely Ermita del Rosario was our next stop. This little religious shrine has an enormous value, for it is believed to be the first catholic church of the continent. Take a close look to the baptismal pile made of stone by the natives.

“And this is the tree where the Spanish ships tied their shackles,” Isaac said pointing to a big tree named Ceiba de la Noche Feliz. “Well, that’s what it is said, but who knows?” he kept saying, as if he didn’t entirely believe what he was told, and he repeated to all his clients.

At the riverside, there are still vestiges of an old dock. A suspended pedestrian bridge crosses the river and is used to get to the town settled on the other side. It was also the scenery to shoot some scenes for a Mexican soap opera several years ago. Standing at the water’s edge you can visualize, and even sense, the hectic trade life that took place here in the remote times of the colony.

And to bring to a close to our tour, we hopped into a small boat and navigate the Huitzilapan river, which turned out to be an unexpected highlight. Traveling slowly downstream, we passed alongside water-lilies, fishermen in small dinghies, and herons basking peacefully on tree branches. When our boat pulled to shore, we descended to a lonely and virgin beach of dark sand from where we stared amazed to the unlimited waters of the Gulf of Mexico.

After thanking Isaac for the tour, we concluded our day in Las Delicias Marinas restaurant, enjoying a delicious plate of fish and seafood, and some bananas stuffed with shrimp.
Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante
TRAVELWHISPER

FROM HERE TO ETERNITY

FROM HERE TO ETERNITY

Heaven is in the state of Tamaulipas. If you come visit Monterrey, Tampico or Ciudad Victoria, you will be only a few hours away from “the entrance to paradise”.

Declared nation’s historic monument, Hacienda Santa Engracia was so named by its founders and now operates as a hotel.

Settled in an enchanted region, this vast property was passed on from generation to generation, and has now almost 300 years of history trapped inside long terraces, luminous patios, lovely arches, and high-beamed ceilings.

Even its employees have most part of their lives working there. Efren Ramirez has worked in the Hacienda for thirty years, and he knows better than anyone its interesting history.


Dear Traveler,

Deprived of television, computers, telephones and other devices, in Hacienda Santa Engracia you will you will forget about the modern world, and remember how it feels to commune with nature, and entirely enjoy a couple of days with your dearest people.

But contrary to what you may think, you will not have a minute to get bored. Your children will be thankful when they discover the vast gardens of orange trees surrounding a full-size pool. And for grown-ups, there are tennis, volleyball and football courts, a gym, and even the possibility to get a massage or a temascal treatment. At night, El Cadillo bar offers the perfect ambiance to play dominoes or watch the only TV in the property while sipping your favorite drink.

Some fascinating elements make this place unique.

An extraordinary billiards room now occupies the former “tienda de raya”, the store where workers exchanged their wage paid in coupons for goods. It has original carved wooden doors and several paintings and statuettes related to its livestock past.

Each of the 31 rooms are one of its kind. Some of them have a fireplace and the original ancient furniture. But I have to warn you… you may see or listen strange things! According to Efren, a young couple reported feeling a boy jumping in their bed at night. When they turned on the lights, it stopped… Another guest said he saw a small blond boy wandering in his room and then disappearing before his eyes! He later declared that this boy had an enormous resemblance to one of the kids in the family pictures hanging on the walls… who lived there decades ago!!

The Hacienda has three dining rooms, one in an open-air veranda looking to the pool, and two impressive private dining halls. The larger one has a fireplace, clay and tile floor, tall ceilings with timber lintels, and a wooden cabinet holding the ancient set of dishes belonging to the family. When you enter, you feel transported to those early years when one of the landowners liked to make his beloved horse Talmar dance on top of the solid ebony table. “He loved Talmar so much that when it died, his owner ordered to make a table and use Talmar’s foot as its legs” said Efren. You can still see this small table in the El Cadillo bar.

But it is probably nature surrounding the area which gave this place the epithet of “entrance to paradise”. At only few minutes by car, you reach the Salto del Tigre (“jump of the tiger”) canyon. With a cliff as background, a lovely river with small cascades and opalescent waters originates. You can see through it and watch the pebbles and stones in the bottom. In hot seasons, people come here to enjoy a fresh dip. Lots of enormous trees, considered sacred by some natives, border the river. If you stroll along the adjacent path you will experience the feeling of being in a movie set. And if you walk enough, you will witness unbelievable landscapes, with peaks that rise toward the sky like a celestial prodigy. You may ascend the little road that takes you to the entrance of a cave, but please do not enter, it is dangerous. In any case, the climbing is worthwhile because from there you will have a spectacular view of the abyss and test the echo. Here you will understand why the place was perceived as heaven. God’s presence is absolute.

From Monterrey city, take the National Highway to Ciudad Victoria. 270 kms from Monterrey, in kilometer 27 (34 km before Ciudad Victoria), you will find a road sign indicating where to turn. You will take a smaller road to the town and the well-known Hacienda. If you are driving by night, pay special attention because the sign is not very visible. Tel. (835) 337 16 58 www.haciendase.com

HOPE AND GLORY-EQUINOX IN MEXICO AND THE UNBELIEVABLE MAYAN PROPHECIES

As soon as you get to the archaeological site, you see thousands of people dressing in white hoping to get rid of the bad vibes, recharge with energy, and be in harmony with the universe.

While climbing the main pyramid, you witness a peculiar ritual to honor the sun, sense the odor of incense and copal, and distinguish people with charms for good luck or charging quartz under the sun. You even meet a shaman ready to release you from any curse or bad vibrations.

However, if you are in Chichen Itza, the event that is capable to make the crowd hold their breath is the moment in which Kukulcan, the feathered-snake god, starts its descent down the Castle…


Dear Traveler,

March 21 has special importance in Mexico. Besides being the date of birth of Benito Juarez, a central protagonist of our history, it is the day spring arrives and, in the west, coincides with the spring equinox.

An equinox is one of the two moments of the year in which the sun’s center crosses the equator, and day and night are of equal length. For the Mesoamerican cultures, equinoxes were of tremendous importance. In spring, the equinox indicated the moment to prepare the soil for planting, and in the summer, indicated the beginning of harvest-time. This information was extremely important for communities ruled by deep religious beliefs, and focused on natural cycles and seasons.

Great civilizations
The constant observation of the Sun gave our ancestors a highly developed knowledge of the stars and an incredibly accurate measurement of time.

As evidence of the greatness of the Mayan people, lets remember that they elucidated that the Earth completes its rotation around the Sun in 365.2420 days (our current calendar marks it in 365.2422), and calculated the year of Venus in 584 days (the NASA determined it in 583.92)… and they did it more than one thousand years ago! Furthermore, Mayans used the mathematic concept of “zero” five hundred years before the Arabs did.

And just like them, Teotihuacans, Totonacas and other communities used the universe order to organize all the aspects of their lives: agriculture, warfare and religion. They expressed this astronomical knowledge even in the construction of their cities. In the ruins of several Mesoamerican cities there are vestiges of important ceremonial centers positioned in specific and perfectly envisaged points projecting out towards the cardinal points of the universe, which give these places a mystical aura and make them important centers for energy magnetism.

Teotihuacan, Tulum and other antique ceremonial centers have a deviation of 17 degrees to the astronomic north, pointing to the magnetic pole, allowing the sun to coincide with the top of the pyramid on the equinoxes. When this phenomenon takes place, the sun lights the northern and southern hemispheres of the Earth equally. Light and dark are in balance.

The City of Gods
One important place to receive energy on the spring equinox is Teotihuacan, known also as the “City of Gods.” At only 50 kilometers northeast of Mexico City, its main components are the Pyramid of the Moon and the huge 63 meter stone Pyramid of the Sun. These structures represent the duality ever present in creation.

The descending feathered-snake god in Chichen Itza
However, probably the most spectacular place to spend the spring equinox is the Mayan archeological center of Chichen Itza, in Yucatan. The reason? the feathered-snake god, Kukulcan, crawling down El Castillo. On the two equinoxes, at the northern stairway of this building, a solar projection at dusk creates a snake consisting of seven inverted light triangles, resulting from the shadows of the nine platforms. The shadow moves forward towards the head made of stone at the foot of the pyramid. When the last triangle touches the base, everybody stands up and raises their hands to receive the positive energy.

This ceremonial center is considered so spectacular that it is now competing to be one of the New Seven Wonders of the World (now please go to http://www.new7wonders.com/ and give this archaeological site a vote!).

12/21/2012, the end of Humankind or the beginning of a new daylight?
The Mayan people had a very interesting vision. But more amazing is that it is still applicable nowadays, giving us some food for thought. They presaged that their priests’ words would be taken into consideration as an awakening guide. And it is true that a new interest for this civilization is growing throughout the world!

They envisaged a Sun eclipse to take place on august 1999 (it happened)... the increase of the earth temperature (it is already happening)... the melting poles (happening too)… and the risk of a comet that will endanger life on earth.

However, one of the predictions that most frightens the human race is the First Prophecy. Some people interpret it as the end of the world, yet, other people say it is a step we must take, an opportunity to go forward (being the end of our time as we know it). This “End of Times” Prophecy states that as of 1992, humankind has only 20 years to change to a higher level of consciousness. Specialists say that the night that joins the 21 to the 22 of December 2012 is the conclusive date.

According to the Mayans, we are living the last “katun” (equal to 20 years) of a long cycle of 5,125 years. Human kind has already lived four long “suns” and now we are at the end of the fifth and last one. At the end of each cycle, the Sun produce a potent light beam synchronizing all the planets and illuminating the universe, increasing energy, accelerating the universe vibration, and transforming the emotions and thoughts of men, conducting them to greater perfection. This glare lasts for 20 years, and indicates a transition.

The revelation says that the 20 years following the beginning of this katun (1992), a phase of profound darkness would make us confront our behavior, and hopefully force us to prepare for a Big Evolution Change. I see it as the darkest portion of the night, just moments before the first sunbeams appear. This period was named the “Mirrors Room”, where we will face ourselves. It is a time of no-time… a very important period in which we may define our future and decide: to change our conduct and be in harmony with nature and the universe, or languish as a species that destroys its own planet.


Celebrate the spring equinox in Mexico
This is a good time to recognize our lights and shadows, ask for peace and equilibrium, and give light and love to each other. People throughout the world believe that the spring equinox is a wonderful time to get energized with the good vibrations coming from the universe.

Like thousands of people that come year after year to our land, visit one of the energy-magnet sites throughout the country. Some great ceremonial centers to receive the sun energy are La Quemada in the state of Zacatecas, and Tajin or Cempoala, in Veracruz. And some mountains and peaks known by their energetic magnetism are El Tepozteco in Tepoztlan, la Peña de Bernal in Queretaro, or la Huasteca in Monterrey.

Be prepared to share experiences with loads of people searching for positive energy, harmony, reconciliation and peace for the world, and expecting also to rid themselves of enmity, resentment and bad vibes.
Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante
TRAVELWHISPER

THE TREASURE OF THE SIERRA MADRE- MONARCH BUTTERFLIES

The mountains of the Sierra Madre hold a hidden treasure. Just an easy two-hour drive from the amazing and cosmopolitan area of Mexico City, there is a unexpected verdant landscape where a natural miracle takes place every year.

In the states of Michoacan and State of Mexico lies an adventurer’s haven, a promise of freedom surrounded in the distance by pretty much untouched forests and mountains.

But the vistas, that seem to go on forever, change drastically when the lushly green pines and fir trees turn multicolored with the arrival of millions of Monarch Butterflies that land in their trunks and branches to spend the winter.


Dear Traveler,

An incredible phenomenon takes place each fall when a myriad of Monarch butterflies travel the impressive distance of 4,500 kilometers to dwell in Mexico, escaping from the cold winters of Canada and the U.S. There are three identified migratory routes, but the largest group traverses the Sierra Madre Oriental arriving to their Mexican home between the first and third weeks of November.

More than 100 million of these beautiful black and orange creatures find shelter in our country, settling down for five months under the warm sun.

As these striking butterflies may only reach their sexual maturity in the warmth of the spring, they come to our pristine wooded valleys and mountains of the Sierra Madre, which protect them from chilling winds and brutal weather changes. It is believed that only this place offers them the perfect conditions and environment for reproduction! Here they find the right oxygen level, protection from direct winds, comfortable temperatures, and access to superficial concentrations of water and vegetation, which constitutes their food source.

After peacefully hibernating during the autumn and winter, the Monarchs start their reproduction rituals at the beginning of spring. The butterflies mate from the middle of February through the middle of March. After pairing off, male butterflies die, and females hatch their eggs. At the beginning of summer, they become beautiful adult butterflies, and return to the north, closing their circle of life.

The Mexican government has established a protected area of 56,000 hectares to guard the refuges of the Monarch butterflies, including five sanctuaries. However, only two of them, Sierra del Campanario and Sierra Chincua (the best preserved and the most wooded of all), are open to the tourists.

In the State of Mexico you will find the reserves of La Mesa in San Felipe del Progreso, El Capulin in Donato Guerra, and San Mateo Almololoa in Temascaltepec.

The visits to the natural butterfly reserves are permitted this time of the year for you to observe the amazing insect clusters.

Follow the Monarch Butterfly Route
The central states of the country have developed a regional tourism itinerary known as The Monarch Butterfly Route, which invite you to visit several destinations which have some common elements that appeal to a certain type of pioneer, like those who want unusual journeys and unparallel adventures. Aside from taking a close look to the wonderful Monarchs, you will have plenty of opportunities for sports and eco-tourism activities such as camping, hiking or paragliding, as well as picturesque towns that will transport you to a different world.

Valle de Bravo, a point of reference in the world of aquatic sports in Mexico
Valle de Bravo is a tranquil town with old colonial charm located just an hour and a half from Mexico City. It has become the favorite weekend destination for many citizens because of its breathtaking natural scenery. One of the highlights of “Valle”, as it is fondly referred to, is its splendid lake, which makes the town a water-sportsman’s dream: sailing, water skiing, windsurfing, fishing, canoeing and kayaking are available to everybody. But it also offers countless chances for a more relaxing stay, such as excellent restaurants with a rustic ambiance, an artisans’ market, and a sparkling nightlife.

Angangueo, home to the annual Festival of the Monarch Butterfly
Nestled in the extraordinary beautiful state of Michoacan, Angangueo is a municipality close to the Sierra Chincua sanctuary. It is an important mining region, and its name means “a very high point,” maybe because it is 2,350 meters above sea level. Its emerald and temperate forests are probably what attract the monarch butterflies year after year. Moreover, it is the main seat of the Festival of the Monarch Butterfly which begins in the middle of February to mainly encourage the knowledge and preservation of the butterflies habitat, and to promote eco-tourism and the history and traditions of the region. For two weeks, you will find lively events focusing on gastronomy, music, dancing, and arts and crafts.

But that’s not all. History and tradition, archaeological zones and colonial churches… thermal waters, waterfalls, and caves… are some of the additional attractions you will find in the region.

Taking care of our dear visitors
The monarch butterfly is of universal interest, and everybody must guard their environment. That is why it is forbidden to hunt, capture or collect any animal species; cut any tree or plant; throw trash or pollution to air, water or soil; make fire or smoke; walk outside the designed paths; eat or drink inside the sanctuaries; touch or in any way harm the monarch butterflies.

Did you know that:
The monarch butterfly takes about two months to fly from Washington to Angangueo?
The fat they need for their trip is stored in their abdomens?
One tagged monarch was recaptured 265 miles away from where it had been released the previous day?
They are genetically programmed to go to the right place at the right time?
They use the sun, and also probably the earth's magnetic field to know which way is south during the fall migration?They are able to travel such far distances by flying very efficiently, taking advantage of air currents and soar, without having to flap their wings all the time?
The number of monarch butterflies that arrive at the different refuges in Mexico varies between 100 and 140 million?
No butterfly completes the back and forth trip, because their cycle of life lasts only a few months?

Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante
TRAVELWHISPER

DANCES WITH WHALES

Moments after you hop inside the wooden fishing boat with another eight people, you swear you just saw a heart-shaped haze emerging from the surface of the water. No, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. It was probably the mythic spout of a gray whale.

As minutes pass, a tail steals over the audience. The excitement grows, and all eyes strain toward the water, hoping to be the first one to spot a whale just below the surface. You know that here, gray whales swim so close to the skiffs that you are able to touch their backs...

Dear Traveler,

An unbelievable blend of endless desert dunes and wild mountains running between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez… precipitous cliffs overseeing splendid coastlines… peaceful fishing towns and colonial cities spotted all along miles of untouched beaches… and some of the most fascinating hotels of the world…

That alone would be reason enough for me to suggest you to visit Baja California Sur. But if you come this time of the year, your prime pursuit must be to board a panga into the sea in search of some of the most friendly and playful mammals: the gray whales.

But don’t think this undertaking will be hard to accomplish. On the contrary. As Baja is the preferred winter destination for this huge animals, hundreds of them get together in three undisturbed sanctuaries in the Mexican Pacific coast to mate or give birth.

Sometimes, even from the beach it’s easy to spot of one or two tails emerging from the water.

But it was not always this way, for there were times gray whales were at the brink of extinction. The story goes that in the mid-1800’s, when the market claimed for their precious oil and baleen, American whaler Charles Melville Scammon discovered Ojo de Liebre lagoon, which served as breeding ground for thousands of whales.

It soon became a common practice for whalers to block off the entrances to this and other peaceful lagoons and make from these sanctuaries a killing ground for the whales and their newborn babies.

In that time, mom whales got a bad reputation among the whalers, who called them “Devil Fish”, because they would fight back and overturn boats when attacked. Known for being very close and protective with their young, they would fiercely react against the boats after seeing how their babies have been slaughtered before her eyes. It is said that killing their calves was the whalers’ way to provoke them to approach the boats so they could wound them too.

The massacre continued for nearly 100 years, coloring Mexican waters in red. From around 25 thousand whales, only several hundreds survived.

But times have changed… On 1946 the hunt was banned and the Mexican government is now very firm in the protection of our dearly loved visitors.

During the winter season, any activity that can bother them is strictly forbidden. As soon as the first whale arrives, the fishing nets and traps disappear, and the fishermen use their boats to take you to your appointment with this amiable giants.

Due to such stiff regulations and to the fact that these are some of the most prolific of cetaceans, it is now estimated that the gray whale population has rebounded to their original number. As a result, you are likely to see not one, but several whales!

“Baby whales love to be petted”, says the guide. "And the older ones like to have their baleen stroked. They all love to play”.

Soon after you leave the shore, you find yourself in the midst of a playground unlike any you'll have ever seen before. You can actually hear their singular moans, rumbles and growls… see them in the distance jumping and falling heavily in a mass of bubbles… what’s more, you will probably have the chance to touch their backs. It is astounding their friendliness when they come close to humans. They seem as fascinated and interested as we are in establishing a connection.

Times have changed so much since the days of the slaughter, that it is said that mothers even teach their babies to get close to the pangas. It seems these creatures have forgiven us for the cruelty used against them decades ago. “Despite their near extinction at our hands, they are again seeking us out”, says Brenda Peterson in her book “Sightings”.

The newborn grays are the most curious. At first, they take their time to observe what is going on. They poke their head out of the water and stare the barge with its huge, unblinking eye. Then, always escorted by its caring mother, it slowly swims until it is within the reach of the enthusiastic sightseers. Everybody starts yelling to get their attention, stretching desperately so they can touch the delicate skin of the newborn whale. The calve clearly looks for it too. Next, mother and son submerge, letting you see all the longitude of their dorsal hump and their huge flukes, before disappearing in the water.

Just as many other species, the grays choose the warm and sunny Mexico to spend the winter. Every year, when the waters of their feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi seas in Alaska turn cold, they head to the south to their winter home in Baja California. Here, they perform their ancient rite of reproduction, a ritual has taken place for thousands of years. Some of them come to Mexico to find a mate and pair off, and others come to give birth and nurse their babies conceived exactly a year before. As they become pregnant and have their babies in our coasts, the gray whale is internationally considered Mexican.
So even if the whales start arriving to Baja on late December, the greatest time for whale-watching is January through late March, after the calves are born.

But where are the best places to watch them?
There are three restricted sanctuaries in the Vizcaino Biosphere Preserve where this mammals and other migratory species congregate.

In the northern part of the state you can go to Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, in the town of Guerrero Negro, or to San Ignacio Lagoon, in the town of San Ignacio.

However, if you want to be near to the hustle and bustle taking place in the tip of the peninsula, then Magdalena Bay is the best destination for you. It’s close enough to enjoy the bars, waterfront restaurants, and shops of La Paz, and the lively tourist corridor of Los Cabos. In this case, you will have to head to the town of San Carlos.

Do not expect luxury resorts or great nightlife in any of these towns, but if you are a photographer, explorer, bird watcher or eco-tourist enthusiast, you will be amply rewarded.

The friendly whale and the fighting whale. Grays are the perfect example of a species that may be very dangerous when threatened, but are open and gracious when treated with respect and affection.

See these amazing animals mating, nursing and frolicking with their young. Don't miss this yearly parade, a wonder of nature that will last only ‘til the end of March.


Some Facts:
- Gray whales grow to about 46 to 50 feet and weight 25 to 35 tons.
- The female whales pregnancy lasts from 12 to 13 months.
- The babies nurse for eight months off their mothers, whose milk contains 53 per cent fat (human milk is only 2% fat). This rich milk helps them build up enough blubber to make the long journey back north, a trek they begin at about two months old.
- Contrary to what we may think, the gray whales skin is black or dark gray when they are born. Their skin is smooth and brilliant, but as they grow, parasites cover their skin, giving them a gray rock appearance.
- Gray whales generally jump twice in a row, so when you see a jump, get your camera ready! But be alert, specially if your camera isn’t waterproof! Whales spout 2 or 3 times per minute in a noisy stream that rises 10-13 feet above the water.


Recommendations:
- Mexican government is very strict about who's allowed near the whales, so it's necessary to go on a tour with an authorized guide.
- Because the number of tours and visitors to the lagoon is limited by the government, it is wise to book reservations in advance. Whale watching tour availability may vary from city to city and are based on approximate dates of yearly whale arrivals and departures.
- Whale Watching Tours can be made in many ways, from the simple one-day trip, to the most sophisticated live aboard or camping all inclusive trips, in conjunction with sea kayaking and natural history interests.
- If you want to get close to a gray whale, don't try to do it stateside. It's against the law. There's always a group of government observers who are constantly watching people from shore to make sure no one hurts the whales or ventures into the off-limits areas of the lagoons.
- The wind and getting wet is inevitable, so be sure to bring warm clothing and headgear, and waterproof bags to protect your camera.

Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante