TIME STANDS STILL- ANTIGUA VERACRUZ

TIME STANDS STILL-
ANTIGUA VERACRUZ

“I can show you around”, Isaac said. Still in his school uniform, this twelve-year-old boy works in the afternoons touring visitors through his hometown.

Many people that comes for fun to the lively Mexican seaport of Veracruz forgets to pay a visit to this nearby historic spot that, in spite of being so small, has invaluable historic jewels and worthwhile sceneries.

“For how much?” I asked, to what Isaac answered we could tip him as we wish. So we took the end to end tour of Antigua, an enchanting, but sometimes unnoticed place.

Dear traveler,

Countless people around the globe have listened La Bamba at least once. Its musical notes are able to transport them to a sometimes imprecise and warm spot in the wonderful Mexico. That splendid land is Veracruz, a state rich in colorful folklore and vibrant traditions. Its inhabitants, commonly referred to as jarochos, are identified as cheerful and light-hearted people, always with a welcoming smile in their face. In the seaport of the same name, the easy pace of living, the good mood and fiesta atmosphere are a habit. There is no need to be in carnival season to find the incurable “veracruzano” ambiance.

Well, just a few miles from this lively spot and its traditional restaurants and bars, cafés and shops, street vendors and marimba musicians, is settled the small and less bustling town of Antigua. Its historic importance is so great, that it is surprising that only a few people know about it. Its cobble-stoned streets, quiet parks, and significant stone constructions represent a period in our heritage that greatly influenced our present.

Like Isaac, you will certainly find a boy or young men offering to take you to visit the town in a visit that will transport you back in time.

Story says that, after arriving to the inhospitable island of San Juan de Ulua, where the heat was oppressive and the strong hurricanes stroke their boats, the Spaniards sought for a more welcoming and protected location to settle and have smooth communications with the ships coming from overseas. So in 1521 they moved to the waterside of the wide and navigable Huitzilapan river, and founded what it is now the town of Antigua, once one of the few contact points with Europe. Here, they received the merchandises coming from San Juan de Ulua, and from here all the commercial trade between the New World and Spain was made for almost 75 years!

Conquistador Hernan Cortes ordered the construction of what it is called the “House of Cortes”, a place now in ruins. Contrary to what you may think, it was never his home. Instead, it was used for public and administrative purposes. Something that will certainly catch your attention are the several trees in the top of the uncovered walls. Yes, in the top of the walls! with huge roots embracing them as if they wouldn’t let go their splendorous past. As we explored the place, numerous gypsies in long and colored skirts got in our way, taking our hands and promising they could reveal our future… for a small fee, of course.

Another remarkable place we visited was the Santa Anna military quarters, also in ruins. This huge space with chipped and deteriorated walls and numerous openings where the windows and doors were located will give you the perfect occasion to take some outstanding black and white portraits.
The lovely Ermita del Rosario was our next stop. This little religious shrine has an enormous value, for it is believed to be the first catholic church of the continent. Take a close look to the baptismal pile made of stone by the natives.

“And this is the tree where the Spanish ships tied their shackles,” Isaac said pointing to a big tree named Ceiba de la Noche Feliz. “Well, that’s what it is said, but who knows?” he kept saying, as if he didn’t entirely believe what he was told, and he repeated to all his clients.

At the riverside, there are still vestiges of an old dock. A suspended pedestrian bridge crosses the river and is used to get to the town settled on the other side. It was also the scenery to shoot some scenes for a Mexican soap opera several years ago. Standing at the water’s edge you can visualize, and even sense, the hectic trade life that took place here in the remote times of the colony.

And to bring to a close to our tour, we hopped into a small boat and navigate the Huitzilapan river, which turned out to be an unexpected highlight. Traveling slowly downstream, we passed alongside water-lilies, fishermen in small dinghies, and herons basking peacefully on tree branches. When our boat pulled to shore, we descended to a lonely and virgin beach of dark sand from where we stared amazed to the unlimited waters of the Gulf of Mexico.

After thanking Isaac for the tour, we concluded our day in Las Delicias Marinas restaurant, enjoying a delicious plate of fish and seafood, and some bananas stuffed with shrimp.
Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante
TRAVELWHISPER