DANCES WITH WHALES

Moments after you hop inside the wooden fishing boat with another eight people, you swear you just saw a heart-shaped haze emerging from the surface of the water. No, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. It was probably the mythic spout of a gray whale.

As minutes pass, a tail steals over the audience. The excitement grows, and all eyes strain toward the water, hoping to be the first one to spot a whale just below the surface. You know that here, gray whales swim so close to the skiffs that you are able to touch their backs...

Dear Traveler,

An unbelievable blend of endless desert dunes and wild mountains running between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez… precipitous cliffs overseeing splendid coastlines… peaceful fishing towns and colonial cities spotted all along miles of untouched beaches… and some of the most fascinating hotels of the world…

That alone would be reason enough for me to suggest you to visit Baja California Sur. But if you come this time of the year, your prime pursuit must be to board a panga into the sea in search of some of the most friendly and playful mammals: the gray whales.

But don’t think this undertaking will be hard to accomplish. On the contrary. As Baja is the preferred winter destination for this huge animals, hundreds of them get together in three undisturbed sanctuaries in the Mexican Pacific coast to mate or give birth.

Sometimes, even from the beach it’s easy to spot of one or two tails emerging from the water.

But it was not always this way, for there were times gray whales were at the brink of extinction. The story goes that in the mid-1800’s, when the market claimed for their precious oil and baleen, American whaler Charles Melville Scammon discovered Ojo de Liebre lagoon, which served as breeding ground for thousands of whales.

It soon became a common practice for whalers to block off the entrances to this and other peaceful lagoons and make from these sanctuaries a killing ground for the whales and their newborn babies.

In that time, mom whales got a bad reputation among the whalers, who called them “Devil Fish”, because they would fight back and overturn boats when attacked. Known for being very close and protective with their young, they would fiercely react against the boats after seeing how their babies have been slaughtered before her eyes. It is said that killing their calves was the whalers’ way to provoke them to approach the boats so they could wound them too.

The massacre continued for nearly 100 years, coloring Mexican waters in red. From around 25 thousand whales, only several hundreds survived.

But times have changed… On 1946 the hunt was banned and the Mexican government is now very firm in the protection of our dearly loved visitors.

During the winter season, any activity that can bother them is strictly forbidden. As soon as the first whale arrives, the fishing nets and traps disappear, and the fishermen use their boats to take you to your appointment with this amiable giants.

Due to such stiff regulations and to the fact that these are some of the most prolific of cetaceans, it is now estimated that the gray whale population has rebounded to their original number. As a result, you are likely to see not one, but several whales!

“Baby whales love to be petted”, says the guide. "And the older ones like to have their baleen stroked. They all love to play”.

Soon after you leave the shore, you find yourself in the midst of a playground unlike any you'll have ever seen before. You can actually hear their singular moans, rumbles and growls… see them in the distance jumping and falling heavily in a mass of bubbles… what’s more, you will probably have the chance to touch their backs. It is astounding their friendliness when they come close to humans. They seem as fascinated and interested as we are in establishing a connection.

Times have changed so much since the days of the slaughter, that it is said that mothers even teach their babies to get close to the pangas. It seems these creatures have forgiven us for the cruelty used against them decades ago. “Despite their near extinction at our hands, they are again seeking us out”, says Brenda Peterson in her book “Sightings”.

The newborn grays are the most curious. At first, they take their time to observe what is going on. They poke their head out of the water and stare the barge with its huge, unblinking eye. Then, always escorted by its caring mother, it slowly swims until it is within the reach of the enthusiastic sightseers. Everybody starts yelling to get their attention, stretching desperately so they can touch the delicate skin of the newborn whale. The calve clearly looks for it too. Next, mother and son submerge, letting you see all the longitude of their dorsal hump and their huge flukes, before disappearing in the water.

Just as many other species, the grays choose the warm and sunny Mexico to spend the winter. Every year, when the waters of their feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi seas in Alaska turn cold, they head to the south to their winter home in Baja California. Here, they perform their ancient rite of reproduction, a ritual has taken place for thousands of years. Some of them come to Mexico to find a mate and pair off, and others come to give birth and nurse their babies conceived exactly a year before. As they become pregnant and have their babies in our coasts, the gray whale is internationally considered Mexican.
So even if the whales start arriving to Baja on late December, the greatest time for whale-watching is January through late March, after the calves are born.

But where are the best places to watch them?
There are three restricted sanctuaries in the Vizcaino Biosphere Preserve where this mammals and other migratory species congregate.

In the northern part of the state you can go to Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, in the town of Guerrero Negro, or to San Ignacio Lagoon, in the town of San Ignacio.

However, if you want to be near to the hustle and bustle taking place in the tip of the peninsula, then Magdalena Bay is the best destination for you. It’s close enough to enjoy the bars, waterfront restaurants, and shops of La Paz, and the lively tourist corridor of Los Cabos. In this case, you will have to head to the town of San Carlos.

Do not expect luxury resorts or great nightlife in any of these towns, but if you are a photographer, explorer, bird watcher or eco-tourist enthusiast, you will be amply rewarded.

The friendly whale and the fighting whale. Grays are the perfect example of a species that may be very dangerous when threatened, but are open and gracious when treated with respect and affection.

See these amazing animals mating, nursing and frolicking with their young. Don't miss this yearly parade, a wonder of nature that will last only ‘til the end of March.


Some Facts:
- Gray whales grow to about 46 to 50 feet and weight 25 to 35 tons.
- The female whales pregnancy lasts from 12 to 13 months.
- The babies nurse for eight months off their mothers, whose milk contains 53 per cent fat (human milk is only 2% fat). This rich milk helps them build up enough blubber to make the long journey back north, a trek they begin at about two months old.
- Contrary to what we may think, the gray whales skin is black or dark gray when they are born. Their skin is smooth and brilliant, but as they grow, parasites cover their skin, giving them a gray rock appearance.
- Gray whales generally jump twice in a row, so when you see a jump, get your camera ready! But be alert, specially if your camera isn’t waterproof! Whales spout 2 or 3 times per minute in a noisy stream that rises 10-13 feet above the water.


Recommendations:
- Mexican government is very strict about who's allowed near the whales, so it's necessary to go on a tour with an authorized guide.
- Because the number of tours and visitors to the lagoon is limited by the government, it is wise to book reservations in advance. Whale watching tour availability may vary from city to city and are based on approximate dates of yearly whale arrivals and departures.
- Whale Watching Tours can be made in many ways, from the simple one-day trip, to the most sophisticated live aboard or camping all inclusive trips, in conjunction with sea kayaking and natural history interests.
- If you want to get close to a gray whale, don't try to do it stateside. It's against the law. There's always a group of government observers who are constantly watching people from shore to make sure no one hurts the whales or ventures into the off-limits areas of the lagoons.
- The wind and getting wet is inevitable, so be sure to bring warm clothing and headgear, and waterproof bags to protect your camera.

Hasta la próxima!
Cesarinna Bustamante